We visited a Tlingit culture and heritage centre.
Food is a central part of their culture, and the land is an abundant provider. A saying amongst the Tlingit is that "when the tide goes out the table is set". Salmon was also a major food source. They used to restrict their movement upstream and herd them to accessible locations, and then spear the trapped fish. I feel ashamed when I realise that a culture that had managed their use of a renewable resource for 10,000 years had had to give in to another culture which destroyed the salmon harvest in most streams in 100 years.
We also learned of the heavy emphasis is placed upon family the five ‘clans’ [ see the totem poles ] and two moieties the Wolf and Raven. You are born to the moeties of your mother but must marry the other. Wealth and economic power are important indicators of status, but so is generosity and proper behavior, all signs of "good breeding" and ties to aristocracy.
Yukon Quest International Sled Dog Race
The Yukon Quest Trail follows historic Gold Rush and mail delivery dogsledding routes from the turn of the 20th century. The mushers who start with 14 dogs and must finish with at least 6 guide them for a 1000 miles, across frozen rivers and lakes and over mountain summits in the heart of the Arctic winter through some of the most pristine wilderness remaining in North America.
Frank Turner, a Whitehorse musher a winner in 1995 and the only competitor in all 20 Quests owns the kennels we visited. In his late 50s he is coming to the end of his mushing career but in the film we saw how hard it was for him to resist the temptation to have another go at the race.
As a feat of endurance there is little to compare but we learned one interesting fact, they drug test the dogs and the vets can order any dog they consider to be unwell from the race but they do not test the mushers and the doctors can not force an ailing musher to withdraw.
Carol’s bit,
Today we went to a sled dog kennels, this is the first place that I would like to stay or come back to. I liked the write up that they gave on the kennels, and when we got there ,it was as it had said.
There were about 120 dogs and puppies. The tiny puppies were about 6 weeks old. All the old dogs are kept as pets and not put down when they have finished working. One litter a year is bred from different bitches, so that there is no in-breeding. There are no dogs for sale here, they are working dogs, and all have their place, and this is their permanent home. The dogs are hybrids not pure bred Malamutes ( the huskies with the black hood). These dogs are lighter and have single coats so that they don’t get too hot. In the very cold weather they will wear coats and boots. Quite a lot of them have wall eyes (blue) so they are related to the Husky and the whites are artic wolf line by their appearance. All dogs go back to the wolf, even a yorkie, these are not so far removed though.A lot of the racing is done at night which is better for the white dogs as they do not like hot sun ( originating from the Artic ) Charro is the same, he does not like the heat, but will lay in the snow happily.
14 dogs start the race as a team, and the musher must finish with at least six. If a dog cannot carry on racing, it will ride on the sled to the next checkpoint, where he is left in care. Both dogs and bitches are used in the race , and sort out their own placings, which can change if their preferences change. Some dogs like to lead, some follow, some don’t like the ice, so they run at the back. Dogs can provide the “push” whilst the bitches keep order and common sense. The handler has to know each dog and how they will perform. The true meaning of teamwork.
We were allowed to walk around and pet all of them,
including the tiny pups.The puppies were being fed and had just learned to handle solid food. As usual they were in the food bowl instead of around it. 
They were quite happy to be picked up and cuddled, there is nothing like the smell of puppies, absolute heaven. Their tiny little warm bodies and cold noses nuzzling up in your neck.
All of the dogs are friendly, some of the “ teenagers” haven’t learned any manners yet, and are still mouthing ,
I nearly had my sweater removed in play by a couple of them.
The kennel manager Manuela was from Germany, and had come to Canada as a finish carpenter. She is very handy at repairing the kennels, as anyone knows who has dogs, that if they don’t want to stay penned in, they will pull the kennel down.
Manuela is perfect for this job, she puts the dogs first and understands how the mind of each one of them works. To handle a dog properly there must be a mutual understanding and respect from both sides, to form a bond. These dogs will work with the mushers because they have that relationship.
She showed us a video on the dog race from Whitehorse to Fairbanks which is run every year. In 2010 she hopes to take part herself. At the moment staff wait along the route of the race and take care of the dogs as they come in to rest. They are checked by a vet, and the staff will feed and bed them down. They will even give them a massage if necessary. The mushers have to sort themselves out. Quite right too!! Without the dogs, there is no race.
We have been invited back to say goodbye on our way out, that’s going to be a long goodbye.
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