Wednesday, May 27, 2009

MORE MEMPHIS and GRACELANDS

CAROL'S BIT.

GRACELANDS, home of Elvis Presley. We headed up Elvis Presley boulevard , past Heartbreak Hotel,










The Lisa Marie, Elvis's private jet named after his daughter. He had another private plane as well with TCB on the tail




( taking care o' bizness )











and one of his cars on display.

Used to be the Pink cadillac.




We go to the RV park just down the road, within walking distance. This was fortunate because, the last time I was here the famous gates at Gracelands were down for cleaning.



This time they were up but open, so I walked down at 6.30am to get a good shot of them. Not a particularly good idea, Memphis is a high crime area.

Everyone has to be bussed into the Mansion from the souvenir area opposite, no one is allowed to just walk in. This was a very organized and state of the art tour. We were given headphones with numbers on. Each area had a number for us to tune to, and we could diverse for extra information if we wanted to.


Gracelands is a mansion sized house and has been left as it was when Elvis was there. He was an honorary member of the FBI and a black belt in Karate, so we passed through his target practice room and gym.

Anyone who is not an Elvis fan , may have the impression that this was just another pop star. He was not. He could sing for a start, and could also act. Unfortunately his manager Col. Tom Parker had a tight grip on what Elvis did, and made both of them a lot of money.
After Elvis died of a heart attack, brought on by PRESCRIPTION drugs, Parker came in the firing line for pushing too hard, and allowing the dependency on drugs to take over Elvis's life.

We got to the area with his working history,
it is full of awards, silver, platinum,gold discs. Covering the walls from floor to ceiling.












His costumes ( you can even buy a copy in the shop, for a price).












All of his films are here.




Including the only two straight part ones that he made Wild in the country and CHARRO ( guess where my dog's name came from, it took me years to get the sound track for that)


Elvis always wanted to play straight parts, instead of the musical ones that he mostly did. They were the bread and butter films though.





There is even an area covering his army days,




he did his two years service, and Tom Parker kept his career going until he came out.

Most Elvis fans learned the German words to Wooden Heart, the song he sang for the film GI Blues.






We came to where he and his family are buried, flowers and tributes come in daily.






In August, which is when he died, this place is packed as fans make a pilgrimage to 'The King '

When we passed the stables and paddock they weren't open to the public. Since then Pricilla has opened them to the public. These contain the horses tack and riders clothes. Some of the original horses were rescued, some bought. Elvis's favorite , a golden palomino called Rising Sun was born in 1961. He was one of four. There are relatives of the original horses still at Gracelands. Sun's Reflection is related to Rising Sun .
The stables were built in 1939 by the original owners, and was bought by Elvis in 1957.

JOHN'S BIT ON ELVIS AND GRACELANDS

I went expecting to be overwhelmed in tacky and unimpressed with a singer that I remebered with some disdain, being much more into the Beatles and the Stones in the 60's.

Instead I liked what was on show. The presentation was excellent and I had not realised how hard he must have worked to satisfy his manager. Even the jungle room with it's green shag pile carpet worked as quirky style rather than tacky. I was also impressed by the fact that he did his two year tour in the army. Even though he lived off post in Germany with some of his family. Also he was a biker so that was another plus point.

Mind you during his life he was exploited and in death he is still a money making machine for someone, maybe Priscilla, hopefully some charities. After all Elvis gave away more than 200 Cadillacs to family and friends.

The Metal Workers Museum was worth the visit.

Along with elegant pots,

[ it is a piggy bank really - put your money on the brass cup and pull the lever]














quirky sculptures











and odd artifacts






they had a working foundry and blacksmiths shop. I was hoping to find some gunsmithing in progress but had to be content with a look at the special anvil that was used and a description of how a Tennessee long musket barrel was formed and forge welded from a short billet of iron. The technique had been lost and was rediscovered by an Arkansas smith who had been asked to make a replica barrel for an old gun.



As well as an entry charge we were asked for a contribution to the cat fund!


We took a tourist trip on a replica riverboat. We were seated on the top deck well before the departure time and as usual I checked out the engineering on view, Carol looks at dogs, I look at welds. WELL they were appalling. This was not welding, this was low flying sparrow shit. I consoled myself by thinking that they had done some DIY modifications to the superstructure, only to find that the hull was a DIY job in some ones backyard and the same person had finished off the superstructure after launching the boat.
As a City and Guilds Certificated welder I know that welding is mostly practice. SO this guy should have been well practiced by the time he got to the superstructure. I was not a happy camper thinking we were heading out on a collection of steel plates tacked together with snot and heading in approximately the same direction through force of habit!

The tour guide raised my anxiety level by punctuating his commentary with famous Mississippi river boat disasters culminating with the greatest loss of life when the Sultana went down killing more than the Titanic sinking.

We visited Mud Island to see the scale model of the Mississippi river created in layered concrete. The idea worked well and as we walked down the half mile of the model we got the feel of the big muddy as it wandered down by towns like Memphis and Vicksburg. The efforts of the Army Corps of Engineers to try to control the course of the river was also well documented.


This part shows the bridges and part of Memphis including Mud Island.


The reasons behind the efforts was not well covered, no mention of the politics that left one town on an unnavigable backwater while another had the channel deepened and kept by their docks. Some towns protected by levees; others allowed to drown in the annual floods as the snow melt raises the water level.

The riverwalk museum covered the history of the area and the river. The history of the boats started with the first rafts, through the days of the steam driven riverboats including the winner of many a race the Robert E Lee and finished with todays powerful pushboats and the string of barges they chug up and down the Mississippi with.


These strings run 24 hours a day, they are refueled and provisioned on the move and is by far the most economical way of moving bulk goods in the USA. The captains get more than $1000 a day which is pretty good money.

We finished off the day with tired and hot feet so it was only right that we had a paddle in the Mini Mississippi to end the day.







Arkabutla Lake

As Memorial day weekend approached and it is the equivalent of UK bank holiday we decided to get booked in somewhere to be sure of having a RV site somewhere.

Fed up with the noise of big city sites with train lines in earshot we settled on a campground at Arkabutla Lake. This area is under the control on the US Army Corps of Engineers who built the dam as part of the efforts to control flooding in the Mississippi valley. Well it was quiet and empty for the first night but even though the forecast was poor it filled up by Saturday mid-day. The site next to us had some kind of extended “redneck” family group. The men had the haircuts, the fishing habit [ big catfish!] and the pickup trucks. They only had one dawg with them though. It was a tiny tiny puppy who seemed to belong to a 5 year old girl. Carol found it difficult not to get involved when we heard it crying but when it got picked up by the little girl it seemed happy enough. The weather forecasters got it right and on Saturday evening the heavens opened and the thunder gods paid us a visit, the unstable weather is supposed to go on for a week.

Still we got out in breaks in the rain to see the beaver pond,



note the chisel points on the tree stumps created when the beavers fell the trees for food and dam building material,







and the sunken picnic tables, the water level is high in the lake due to all the rain.





Next stop Tunica, self styled Las Vegas on the Mississippi, for some poker and shopping then on to Vicksburg and some serious civil war stuff.

Saturday, May 16, 2009

Sun Studios, Beale Street and dogs riding shotgun in Memphis

The high spot of the tour was when Eldorado, our tour guide said “Then she licked the microphone”.

We came to Memphis for different reasons, for Carol, Gracelands will be the highlight of our visit to the home of the blues,

for me it will be to stand on the hallowed ground of the home of rock and roll.

The first stop on our tour of the highlights of Memphis was the Sun recording studio. For lovers of rock and roll this is where it all started with a song called Rocket 88. A song about fast cars guys and the chicks they hoped to pull.

The studio was a time capsule from the 50s. Sam Phillips the owner, recording engineer and floor sweeper would use a single track, recording onto tape with the best live “take” being made into an acetate master disk.




This LP shows how the history of rock and roll came from Sun records.







This picture shows the million dollar jam session when Jerry Lee Lewis was recording with Carl Perkins when Elvis dropped in to catch up with the local gossip and Johnny Cash who had been due to record later got in on the act. We even heard a tape of some of the out takes from that session.




As Sams success had allowed him to move into bigger premises this tiny studio was left untouched and some of the early outdated equipment stored there, including this microphone which was used in the 50s in many recording sessions. Eldorado our tour guide said that when one visitor heard that it was likely that Elvis had sung into this mike she went up to the mike and licked it. Carol had to promise not to repeat this act.

But the guitars and drums in the sessions were there with the crosses on the floor where the artists had to stand to get the best out of the old style acoustics in the tiny studio.

We got to hear the 18 year old Elvis on his first ever recording. It cost him $3 to make and he only got one take. Sam did not make the disk for Elvis . This lady did and she fell for the velvet voice. Sam was not sure and it took her a year to get Sam to fix it for him to play with two other musicians. Eventually he signed him to a 3 year contract. After 18 months he sold Elvis to RCA records for $35,000. This was a lot of money in the 50s. With hindsight he might have asked for more but the money allowed him to stave off his creditors and hire more staff. With the next few years came success as he had gold records with Great Balls of Fire [ Jerry Lee Lewis ], Blue Suede Shoes [ Carl Perkins] and He Walked the Line [ Johnny Cash ].

As Eldorado played little riffs from many of these sessions all over the studio eyes were closed and a little discrete air guitar was played as many there had a Walter Mitty moment. I know I did.






Our next stop was Beale street, so nearly bulldozed in the fit of urban regeneration that overtakes town planners but some how allowed to survive, scruffy, tacky and very much alive today. We wandered up and down listening to the live music belting out from many free performances.




We even found a bar where the spirit of Coyote Ugly lives on and girls dance on the bar.




Walking back we met Echo, a white German Shepard sitting tall alongside his carriage driving owner, he was not the last dog we saw riding shotgun on a horse drawn carriage.

Sun Studios, Beale Street and dogs riding shotgun in Memphis

The high spot of the tour was when Eldorado, our tour guide said “Then she licked the microphone”.

We came to Memphis for different reasons, for Carol, Gracelands will be the highlight of our visit to the home of the blues, for me it will be to stand on the hallowed ground of the home of rock and roll.

The first stop on our tour of the highlights of Memphis was the Sun recording studio. For lovers of rock and roll this is where it all started with a song called Rocket 88. A song about fast cars guys and the chicks they hoped to pull.

The studio was a time capsule from the 50s. Sam Phillips the owner, recording engineer and floor sweeper would use a single track, recording onto tape with the best live “take” being made into an acetate master disk.




This LP shows how the history of rock and roll came from Sun records.







This picture shows the million dollar jam session when Jerry Lee Lewis was recording with Carl Perkins when Elvis dropped in to catch up with the local gossip and Johnny Cash who had been due to record later got in on the act. We even heard a tape of some of the out takes from that session.




As Sams success had allowed him to move into bigger premises this tiny studio was left untouched and some of the early outdated equipment stored there, including this microphone which was used in the 50s in many recording sessions. Eldorado our tour guide said that when one visitor heard that it was likely that Elvis had sung into this mike she went up to the mike and licked it. Carol had to promise not to repeat this act.

But the guitars and drums in the sessions were there with the crosses on the floor where the artists had to stand to get the best out of the old style acoustics in the tiny studio.

We got to hear the 18 year old Elvis on his first ever recording. It cost him $3 to make and he only got one take. Sam did not make the disk for Elvis . This lady did and she fell for the velvet voice. Sam was not sure and it took her a year to get Sam to fix it for him to play with two other musicians. Eventually he signed him to a 3 year contract. After 18 months he sold Elvis to RCA records for $35,000. This was a lot of money in the 50s. With hindsight he might have asked for more but the money allowed him to stave off his creditors and hire more staff. With the next few years came success as he had gold records with Great Balls of Fire [ Jerry Lee Lewis ], Blue Suede Shoes [ Carl Perkins] and He Walked the Line [ Johnny Cash ].

As Eldorado played little riffs from many of these sessions all over the studio eyes were closed and a little discrete air guitar was played as many there had a Walter Mitty moment. I know I did.






Our next stop was Beale street, so nearly bulldozed in the fit of urban regeneration that overtakes town planners but some how allowed to survive, scruffy, tacky and very much alive today. We wandered up and down listening to the live music belting out from many free performances.




We even found a bar where the spirit of Coyote Ugly lives on and girls dance on the bar.




Walking back we met Echo, a white German Shepard sitting tall alongside his carriage driving owner, he was not the last dog we saw riding shotgun on a horse drawn carriage.

Sun Studios, Beale Street and dogs riding shotgun in Memphis

The high spot of the tour was when Eldorado, our tour guide said “Then she licked the microphone”.

We came to Memphis for different reasons, for Carol, Gracelands will be the highlight of our visit to the home of the blues, for me it will be to stand on the hallowed ground of the home of rock and roll.

The first stop on our tour of the highlights of Memphis was the Sun recording studio. For lovers of rock and roll this is where it all started with a song called Rocket 88. A song about fast cars guys and the chicks they hoped to pull.

The studio was a time capsule from the 50s. Sam Phillips the owner, recording engineer and floor sweeper would use a single track, recording onto tape with the best live “take” being made into an acetate master disk.




This LP shows how the history of rock and roll came from Sun records.







This picture shows the million dollar jam session when Jerry Lee Lewis was recording with Carl Perkins when Elvis dropped in to catch up with the local gossip and Johnny Cash who had been due to record later got in on the act. We even heard a tape of some of the out takes from that session.




As Sams success had allowed him to move into bigger premises this tiny studio was left untouched and some of the early outdated equipment stored there, including this microphone which was used in the 50s in many recording sessions. Eldorado our tour guide said that when one visitor heard that it was likely that Elvis had sung into this mike she went up to the mike and licked it. Carol had to promise not to repeat this act.

But the guitars and drums in the sessions were there with the crosses on the floor where the artists had to stand to get the best out of the old style acoustics in the tiny studio.

We got to hear the 18 year old Elvis on his first ever recording. It cost him $3 to make and he only got one take. Sam did not make the disk for Elvis . This lady did and she fell for the velvet voice. Sam was not sure and it took her a year to get Sam to fix it for him to play with two other musicians. Eventually he signed him to a 3 year contract. After 18 months he sold Elvis to RCA records for $35,000. This was a lot of money in the 50s. With hindsight he might have asked for more but the money allowed him to stave off his creditors and hire more staff. With the next few years came success as he had gold records with Great Balls of Fire [ Jerry Lee Lewis ], Blue Suede Shoes [ Carl Perkins] and He Walked the Line [ Johnny Cash ].

As Eldorado played little riffs from many of these sessions all over the studio eyes were closed and a little discrete air guitar was played as many there had a Walter Mitty moment. I know I did.






Our next stop was Beale street, so nearly bulldozed in the fit of urban regeneration that overtakes town planners but some how allowed to survive, scruffy, tacky and very much alive today. We wandered up and down listening to the live music belting out from many free performances.




We even found a bar where the spirit of Coyote Ugly lives on and girls dance on the bar.




Walking back we met Echo, a white German Shepard sitting tall alongside his carriage driving owner, he was not the last dog we saw riding shotgun on a horse drawn carriage.

Friday, May 15, 2009

VILLAGE CREEK STATE PARK

Sometimes it seems that we are just blatting along an Interstate motorway going from one RV park to another. Each RV park being much the same with rows of Rvs jammed in like sardines. But where possible we like to use State Park and National Park campgrounds as they usually offer more space and sometimes, no most times, better surroundings.

With this in mind we decided to forgo the commercial campgrounds with their WIFI and laundries for the rustic simplicity of a state park and made our way up a twisting backroad to VILLAGE CREEK STATE PARK. As soon as we pulled in it was clear we had a winner and within minutes I was adding another entry in my bird spotters notebook as I spotted a sharp shinned hawk working a thermal. The campground was a delight
with well spread out shady plots with full hook-ups all for a very reasonable price. In the couple of days we were there we must have seen at least 50 different birds ok some were unidentifiable [by me] LBJs. But brightly colored tanagers, cardinals and some kind of predominately blue bird which might have been a female prothonotary warbler flitted around and we heard a wild turkey gobbling away one morning. Deer came out to graze on the open spaces and frogs were everywhere there was water nearby.

We also new about the hikes available before we came but one attracted us in particular.
The park holds the most unspoilt section of an old military trail which was built in the early 1800s to supply the forts in Little Rock and Fort Smith and was used a little later by the Choctaw and Chickasaw tribes as they were forcibly moved West along what became known as the Trail of Tears.

The roadway has been cut by footsteps, hooves and wagon wheels to a deep lane running through the trees. The parties of travelers would often stop here for a few days as the game was plentiful and the land a little dryer than the boggy miles from Memphis. As we stumped along carrying a water bottle and a camera only intent on making a couple of miles before retiring to our air conditioned RV with hot and cold running everything we did reflect on those who were making a journey of several hundred miles carrying all they owned and having to hunt or gather their food as they went. It is little wonder that the old, the very young, the halt and the lame did not make it to the New Lands that the Great White Father had promised them in Oklahoma.


It would have been easy to gather a meal from the mushrooms

but I might have skipped these two.












The deer might have been a little more gun shy than this pair.



We are heading toward the home of rock and roll and we will visit Gracelands for a lesson in tastefull décor as well.

Well when we got to Memphis and found our campground, we found it was underwater. Yes all that rain has flooded the mighty Mississippi. So here we are, slumming it at the Elvis Presley Blvd RV park, running on some very dodgy WiFi.

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

OZARKS and LITTLE ROCK

We left Fort Smith and drove up into the Ozark mountains. There's an old folk saying about the Ozark Mountains: "It's not that the mountains are so high, it's just that the valleys are so deep."






Where Carol made some new friends at our camp site.

Not long after this the saying " It's nice weather for ducks came true" and we retreated from the mountains.








We discovered that the locals were religious about their

right to kill anything that moved or swims.

Even the official body charged with conservation seems to be mostly concerned with getting the numbers up to the point where the species can be hunted.

We saw a fine display of hunting rifles at the local museum in Little Rock










along with a fine display about the local first nation peoples although we were puzzled about this fine traditional eagle feather item.







There was quite a bit about the trade of gunsmithing and some fine examples of early hand made one off weapons like this one.











This "Old Mill" garden was very Hansel and Gretel but we liked it as it stayed just this side of twee.














Finally we visited the shrine to Little Rocks most famous citizen.







Strangely we could fine no mention of "that woman".

AKA Monica Samille Lewinsky


We are still in Little Rock getting wetter by the day as the rain that drove us out of the Ozarks keeps falling. I suppose we will head further East but it is even wetter there!

Saturday, May 9, 2009

FORT SMITH, JUDGE PARKER and THE TRAIL OF TEARS

We left Oklahoma yesterday and stopped off at Fort Smith.
I had always wanted to see this place because it was on the "frontier" between the white lands and indian lands. It was a lawless area until a severe and able Federal Judge, Issac Parker was appointed to dispense justice.


He was nicknamed "The Hanging Judge" because of the many men he sent to the gallows.

During his 21 years on the bench at Fort Smith, Judge Parker sentenced 160 men to die and hanged 79 of them. It didn't take Parker long to get going. On May 10, 1875 -- only 8 days after he arrived at Fort Smith -- he opened his first term of court. Eighteen persons came before him charged with murder and 15 were convicted. Eight of them were sentenced to die on the gallows on September 3, 1875. One was killed trying to escape and a second had his sentence commuted to life in prison because of his youth.

To capture the bad guys, Judge Parker deputized marshals
who would go into the Indian territories with a mini wagon train and a pocketful of warrants. It was a risky job and about a 1/3 of them lost their lives on the job.

For every 7 white men captured this way, there would be 3 afro-americans and 1 Indian.

His court room has been recreated but the ambiance is missing. He was no friend to the defence and justice was heavily weighted in favour of the prosecution.

Fort Smith was also important in a dark part of American history,
the "ethnic cleansing of the South".


In 1831, the Cherokee, Chickasaw, Choctaw, Muscogee-Creek, and Seminole were living in the American Deep South. But the white man wanted their lands. So they had their lands taken from them under the Indian Removal Act of 1830. They were rounded up and placed in concentration camps, before being sent on a forced march west to Oklahoma.This became known as the trail of tears.

The Seminoles in Florida were the only tribe who tried hard to resist this. The war cost over $20 million and even now there are a small group who maintain that they won!

Perhaps they did as thay have the right to run casinos on their lands and the slogan is "Taking back America, one nickel at a time."