Northern Oregon in the snow and the rain

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We were expecting a warm, often wet, passage north through the North West corner of America, what we got was some freak weather and a record for the latest snowfall ever. It has been snowing then raining since last Saturday. I was going flying and had arranged for a day as a guest with a club based at Sutherlin. We looked in on the field as it was only a mile off Interstate 5. The picture says it all, an inch or so of snow and all sensible flyers were tucked up at home.

We tucked up that night and listened to the rain beat down on our roof. We drifted on up the coast next day and watched big surf roll in while we walked Charro in the brief intervals between squalls.

Back inland we drove into the temperate rainforest on the westerly slopes of the Cascade mountains to visit the biggest state park in Oregon, a place called Silver Falls. It was raining hard when we arrived and raining when we left. However during a short break in the relentless precipitation we managed to visit the two most impressive waterfalls in the park. The park allows dogs on some trails but not the main waterfall trails so Charro got left behind and we set off for the falls. The hike took us through some Jurassic landscape. The trees were not just dripping with moss, they were inches deep in it with ferns growing like leaves from the twisted branches.
We were able to walk behind both falls.









Perhaps the best bit for us was getting back to our home and curling up in comfort with Charro acting as a foot warmer.






We left earlier than we planned because of the rain and headed to another Oregon park called Champoeg. Charro got his walk but it looked like his joints were hurting so he hopped on to his trolley and enjoyed the rest of the promenade by the Williamette river to Butteville [real name!] in style.

We visited the Saturday craft market in Portland and got stocked up at WalMart which was a lot easier on the kitty than some other stores we have had to use recently. It really is cheaper there.

Mount Hood was next on the itinerary as I needed a fix on the white stuff. After a days skiing in soft snow my legs were sore but it was worth it. I understand what they mean by Sierra Cement snow conditions now.






We followed the Lewis and Clark trail back into Portland stopping at the Bonneville dam [ in the rain ] and then looked in to the fish hatchery [ in the rain ] where we met Herman. Herman is a 10 foot long 450 lb white sturgeon and as usual Carol was able to coax him to come and speak to her through the glass. He is only a stripling as sturgeon go as they can reach 20 feet and weigh 1500lb.







After a day spent in the rain it finally let up and Charro was able to have a walk in a park in the Columbia gorge with scud cloud lifting from the hill sides and California sea lions playing in the water.





We are in Vancouver, the one in Washington not Canada, at the moment in the rain again. Everyone we speak to says this is not typical weather, it should be warmer and much dryer.

Mount St Helens is next on the agenda although we might stay somewhere next to a vet for some time if Charro gets wobbly again.

A week in Grants Pass Oregon

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We pulled into Grants Pass intending to stay for one day to pick up some jewelery fabrication material and after finding a lovely quiet RV Park on the river decided to stay a week visit some local attractions and get a few odd jobs done. We found a lovely city park with lots of grass to walk Charro and the shops we needed.

The Rogue River
The river runs past the back of our RV and we have been treated to a feast of bird life including big woodpeckers, hummingbirds, northern flickers and lots of waterfowl.

OIL CHANGE
We could not use Walmarts but were recommended to OIL CAN HENRY as someone who could handle something of our height. Well, we got serviced with service. A greeting from a pinstriped bow tie wearing receptionist, a fresh newspaper while we waited then the service was carried out while we sat inside our RV with pinstriped bow tie wearing mechanics calling out their checklists to each other like US marines calling cadence as they march. All together a good company.




CLASSIC CARS
Again we have been surprised by the numbers of 20 to 40 year old classic american cars in everyday use. Just today in the employee parking of Fire Mountain Jewels were 2 mid sixties Mustangs and early 70's Dodge Charger with a subtle roof chop.

Animal Zoo
When we ever learn? We took a tour of a famous local wildlife rescue centre and we were appalled by the conditions in which the birds and animals were kept. Eagles kept in cages with a tiny outdoor area not large enough to fly in. Three wolves kept in two cages with electric fences and little in the way of enrichment. Black bears, cougars, bobcats lynx, badger and so on all kept in small areas with not a lot to distractions. We saw the usual signs of bored animals in repetitive movements
and behaviours. One thing that we saw that really scared me was a couple of nearly full grown grizzly bears kept in an enclosure fenced with light weight mesh fencing. Yes, there was an electric fence but I think if they wanted to they could go right through it and the fence.

Carol’s comment.

The so called “rescue park” seems to be a pattern out here. The animals are rescued to be condemned to a life of misery. The wolves that John has already mentioned were in enclosures way to small for them. The grey was alone, he wagged his tail and then whined,when I spoke to him, he then went and laid on top of some sort of oil drum.

I had gone ahead of the rest of the group , who were the typical out for the day, anywhere will do brigade. They were noisy and uncontrolled by the volunteer that led us. I managed to get to the cages before anyone else. The two white female wolves were kept in a cage next to the grey, and as I went close and called them, they too whined, and wagged their tails. The fencing is surrounded by an electric one on the inside near the animals, and they were obviously wary of coming too close. I managed to find a gap in the corner and get up close. Both of them came to the corner, and one pressed her face up against the wire and licked my hand, there was no sign of aggression , in fact they were both submissive.
These two are “ambassadors” for the park. In other words they front the programme to get sympathy. If the animals that we didn’t see ,are in fact released back into the wild, I can see why fund raising is necessary, they receive no government funding.
BUT no other animal should suffer because of it.
The worst part of this ,is, that the volunteers who work there are so enthusiastic about it, they cannot see that this is wrong, so therefore no one is likely to be a whistle blower.
Some of the animals were pacing, a mountain lion kept on concrete in a sun starved cage, birds that couldn’t fly further that their tether, a grizzly was pacing with aggression up and down his enclosure, when he finally decides that he has had enough, an electric fence isn’t going to stop him. Neither will the cage full of bored black bears opposite him
We won’t be going to any more of these “attractions” I just hope that the animals we see in the state parks are better treated than those we have seen rescued.

ON THE ROAD AGAIN

We are heading north tomorrow towards Sutherlin to pick up our mail on Monday. I was hoping to get a few flights in with the local club on Sunday but winter is returning to southern Oregon with snow in the forecast all the way down to the vally floor.

Walking in the woods

We walked up past a flood plain meadow that was filled with grazing Elk when we returned. Our goal was to reach a waterfall and find some "mother" trees with cloned daughters.









As you can see the much thicker mother tree has the daughters clustered around it. The clone daughters use the existng root system of the mother tree. If a daughter goes on to clone itself again that might make the root stock effectivly immortal. That is a thought to ponder.






Some of the trees have amazing moss and lichen coverings and some even seem to be supporting ferns.








We are in Oregon now and the change from California is very marked, far fewer Hybrids and many more "Bubba" trucks.
Spandex joggers are now quite rare being replaced by hitch hiking vets. wearing wool shirts. Finally dentistry is no longer an art form but just another practical necessity.

TALL TREES OLD HOUSES AND NEW HOUSES

LACK OF PICS DUE TO POOR WIFI AT KAMP KLAMATH

PICS ADDED USING THE EXCELLENT WIFI AT RIVERPARK RV RESORT APRIL 13TH.

EUREKA

The fine old Victorian houses and shops of downtown Eureka used to serve the miners drawn to California by the promise of “easy pickins” in 49. Now they are just as able to provide for the visitors
drawn by the history and the urge to see something without a Walmart and Burger King on the corner. We shopped and did the tourist bit for a while but were soon heading out to a night amongst the tall trees in Patrick’s Point State Park.

PATRICK’S POINT STATE PARK

We already knew a little about the native Americans who lived in this area when we arrived at the recreation of the Yurok village. There was no one in the parking lot but us and we had the village to ourselves as we tried to work out what each building was for. Unlike most tribes who were either totally nomadic or partially nomadic the tribes that lived in this area had such a wealth of food on offer all year round that they could build permanent houses. These they made from California redwoods, the tallest trees in the world. Using stone axes they would cut a fallen tree into manageable lengths and then with fire to soften the wood and wedges to split it they made boards for their houses, fat ones for the sides and curved ones for the roof. We knew that the time and effort that this took was considerable but that the house would last a long time. In fact one native name for the type of house we saw is “Hundred Year House”

However the houses we saw had needed repair after only twenty years. The reason the Yuroks had lived in the houses continuously with a fire that was never allowed to go out. Also on hot summer days they would remove the roof and occasionally the walls as well. Surprisingly this could be done in an hour or so.

The canoe was also made from a wind fall redwood, cut to length then the inside would be removed by carefully controlled burning and scraping. Pine tar was often used as it provided a controllable line of fire and heat which would soften the wood to the point that it could be removed by hand or scraped out with shell adzes. The final canoe had a smooth interior and exterior finish. Initially I thought it had things like anchor posts and kneeling blocks sculpted from the timber as internal features but I learned that the Yurok consider a canoe to be a living thing and those features were the canoe’s nose, heart, lungs and kidneys.

Carol’s bit.

I now have a tree growing in the bathroom, or it will be. It is a Redwood burl. These are formed around the tree after an injury, they cover the scar with a nodule. Once removed from the tree they can be placed in water and will produce shoots. Fortunately they are slow growing, so by the time it gets too big , we will be on the boat and I will have to get someone else to look after it.

The Yurok village was in a clearing in Patricks park state park. Very quiet and peaceful and we thought we were alone. A voice which was obviously Native American said “ Hi there “ and someone stepped out of one of the houses. His name was Skip and he was the ranger for the village.

We stood talking to him for some time, and learned that the knowledge that he had , was passed down traditionally from elders, and he in turn was passing it on to children. Not only Native American children but of other cultures as well .
There is obviously still an attitude amongst the non Native Americans that they own the land and the Native people have no right to be there and should move.
What they don’t seem to realise is that no one on this planet owns anything, it was here before we were, and should be still here when we go. The belief amongst all indigenous people is that we are the keepers of this planet, and we are supposed to take care of it for the next person. ( not working too well, is it )
Skip is rightly proud of his ancestry, and the beliefs of his culture. One in particular that I already knew about, is that women are respected as the givers of life, without them there is no future, their role in a community is important. The men have their role to play as well and the two roles compliment each other. Instead of the two side believing that they are right . the women have a place to go and teach their daughters and the men do the same for their sons, each has a respect for the others opinion.
Non Native Americans take what they want, and as much as they can, Native Americans only take what they need. ( how many hoarders and “must have’s” do you know )
Teaching other cultures is not going to be easy, but Skip seems to be happy with the results that he is getting from the American Kids so far. Going to the village is a good place to learn , and from someone who is entitled to teach them, instead of a “teacher”
that has read books and is not a Native American.

Anyone interested in learning more could look at .CLICK HERE

http://www.originalvoices.org/

web site.


TALL TREES

We walked through the tallest trees on earth this afternoon. California Redwoods are not as massive as the giant Sequoia but they are taller reaching 380 feet and more. The groves of redwoods are quite eerie, with moss and ferns growing everywhere including living trees. It was easy to see why they have been used in many films including the Ewok chase in Star Wars and Jurassic Park.
The Redwoods mainly reproduce by cloning themselves and we saw evidence of this on our afternoon walk. An ancient first growth redwood would be surrounded by a ring of daughter trees some of which would be starting their own offspring. These often come from Burls on their bases.
We have part of a living Burl and have been told that if we water the lump of wood it should sprout a miniature Redwood or two.






FLOODS

They have some real serious floods around the Redwood forests of Northern Califoria. In 1964 hundreds of redwoods were lost due to this flood and the 2 to 9 metres of silt that it left behind. Heavy rains on steep slopes that had been previously logged and fire damaged, washed down thousands of tons of gravel and debris.

NORTH WEST CALIFORNIA

Oakland Berkley and the Delta Blues

As a jazz aficionado I had known of the Delta Blues and had been aware that it originated from an area near San Francisco. Well we drove through the Delta and it may truly get the blues soon. It is a large area maybe 800 square miles of low lying farmland with new housing developments being built everywhere. People, desperate to get away from the violent streets of Oakland and Berkley, are rushing to purchase in these picture perfect suburban developments constructed 20 to 30 feet below the level of the rivers running by them. The rivers are contained by ancient earth levees which are being raised as the land sinks. In some cases the land is now below sea level. “ When will they ever learn”

I did a little research and found this;
"As long as the subdivisions comply with very outdated federal floodplain maps, or the promoters have obtained some sort of exemption from the Army Corps of Engineers, there are no restrictions or flood insurance requirements. And under a recent state appellate court decision, if a levee fails and nearby homes are flooded, the State of California is liable, not developers or the local governments that approve the housing plans."

San Francisco’s tramps and bag ladies

Everywhere we went in San Francisco we saw homeless people. They came in many varieties, the dirty, dishevelled street sleepers with no apparent possessions, the old Chinese ladies picking through the bins with tongs looking for drinks cans, but most striking of all was a well presented lady in a full length leather coat that looked pretty new, pushing a shopping cart with what seemed to be all her worldly possessions neatly wrapped in heavy duty bin bags. We did not suffer from any aggressive begging in San Francisco but it is quite common. I still remember the well spoken young men and women of Venice beach LA discussing quite openly how they could pressure the tourists for money.

Marin County

We crossed from San Francisco into upmarket, organic, conservation conscious, Volvo driving [ WHY?] Marin County. We did not see a single set of Golden Arches or a KFC but getting a good loaf of high fibre multigrain bread got MUCH easier. In fact we had a choice.

We are following the Pacific Coast Highway up the coast. The road twists and turns along some spectacular cliffs with views of the migrating grey whales and hopeful surfers who await the perfect wave.





Point Reyes
We visited the Point Reyes Peninsula national park which is a unique piece of continental crust attached to Marin County. The peninsula is unique because it has been travelling North for millions of years along the Pacific plate. It is the west side of the San Andreas fault. The picture shows a fence which runs across the fault. In 1905 it was a straight line in 1906 it doglegged by 20 feet during the last “BIG ONE”. We stood astride the fault line even though some experts say the next “BIG ONE” is overdue.



We are staying in well laid out State parks that have been built along the coast. However we got it wrong a couple of nights ago when we pulled into Bodega Bay sand spit and found ourselves assigned a beautiful site just site 20 yards from a beach. We took Charro for his evening walk along the hard sand beach then settled down for the rest of the afternoon outside in our recliners thinking, it does not get much better than this. There was a beautiful protected harbour on the other side of the sand spit with an entrance protected by long stone piers, one of which had a light and foghorn on the end. We assumed that the fog horn would switch to a light when dusk fell. By the way there was no hint of fog over land or sea, visibility was excellent. Well we were wrong the light came on but the foghorn continued its mournful but penetrating bleat every 10 seconds. We assured ourselves that it would stop and it did eventually. We think it was at 2 am but we know exactly when it restarted; it was at 5 am.

Seals

Many of the river mouths have sand banks where the California seal populations haul out to give birth and mate. All the approaches are plastered with signs advising what distances to maintain and what to do if an abandoned seal pup is found. We have not been down there ourselves as the aforementioned signs are outnumbered by those stating IN BIG LETTERS - NO RVs NO DOGS and NO OVERNIGHT PARKING. We are reminded of signs seen in the UK till recently, No coloured and no Irish.



FORT BRAGG

I spent a morning flying with the Fort Bragg Fog Busters who have one of the most testing flying fields I have ever seen. It is completely surrounded by tall pines, and is next to a large deep quarry. You have to fight through the turbulence produced by the swirling winds then make a steep approach to the field and hope the direction has not switched.

In contrast
we spent the afternoon walking through 47 acres of gardens filled with the scent of blooming rhododendrons as well as many other plants.


However we are both a little worried about the people who need this notice.